Los Arcos to Logrono – 27kms
Next stop Logrono. Still no sign of a heatwave which means we can sleep a little longer in the mornings, as we don’t have to leave at some unearthly hour to try and outrace the sun!
27 kilometres to walk and we were grateful for the cloudy skies. It wouldn’t be much fun walking that distance in baking sunshine. Every cloud has a silver lining!
As we left Los Arcos we passed a cemetery. There was a sobering inscription on the gate –
“Yo que fui lo que tu eres, tu sera lo que yo so” which translates as “I was once what you are, and you will be what I am.”
True, but let’s hope not anytime soon!!
After walking about 7 kms we arrived in Sansol and we decided this would be the perfect place to stop and eat our breakfast of crusty bread and cheese. We decided to buy coffee at the first shop we came to. Big mistake. The coffee was horrible and the shop keeper who served us wasn’t too nice either. And if we had just walked on a little further, there was a beautiful place called Albergue Sansol serving breakfast for 4euro. Sometimes it pays to wait.
We walked through Torres del Rio, a town and municipality located in the province of Navarre. It is halfway between Los Arcos and Viana.
It was a steep uphill walk from Torres del Rio and tough on the old knees. At Armananzas we passed a stone cross decorated with photographs, momentoes and trinkets left by other pilgrims.
“We are pilgrims, not settlers; this earth is our inn, not our home.” John H Vincent
Each momentoe represents a little piece of a pilgrim’s story; pain, heartbreak, courage and hope. We stopped here for a while and we were reminded of the old saying…”if we threw our problems into a pile and saw everyone elses, we’d grab ours back.”
Olive trees lined the route we walked and we also passed small beehive shelters where pilgrims in olden times would have stayed. It made us feel grateful for even the most over crowded municipal. Not that we have stayed in an over crowded municipal…. yet. There’s still time!
We stopped again at a food truck at Bargota (yes, we are always thinking of our stomachs) which sold coffee, tea and beer.
The lovely owner had no problem with us eating our own packed lunch at his premises. In fact, when he saw we only had cheese to put on our bread, he insisted on opening up a packet of Prosciutto ham and filled up our sandwiches with it, all for free! That definitely wouldn’t happen at home. Yet again, we have met with the most kind, good-natured people on this trip.
As we continued on our way we walked through the La Rjoia region, which is famous for its gorgeous wine. So it was interesting to walk through the vineyards from where I’ve drank so much of its produce. The grapes looked delicious, and we couldn’t resist sneaking a few to eat, and believe me, they tasted as good as they looked. No wonder La Rjoia wine tastes so good.
We also walked through Viana, a beautiful old Spanish town, with stunning views over the surrounding countryside. We took some time to explore around the ruins of the thirteenth century gothic church of San Pedro and the Church of Santa Maria. Well worth a visit.
After about walking 9 hours, we finally reached Logrono just after 5:30pm. Our legs were aching. Poor Sharon struggled badly with blisters and a swollen ankle, but like a real trooper she kept going.
We had rang ahead earlier and booked Hostel Entresuenos – www.hostellogrono.com – +34 941 27 13 34
The room was small, but it was just the six of us sharing so we didn’t mind. There was a communal showering area and overall it was very clean. It cost 10 euro for the night. We had a pilgrim meal in Calenda Restaurant on Calle Portales just around the corner from our hostel. (13 euro for a 3 course meal with wine). I would highly recommend both places.
Today had been a hilly walk, with lots of ups and downs, but we took our time, and stopped along the way to take in the views. My advice is to make sure you stock up with water before you leave towns, as there are long distances to go between places without any water stops.
Read more @ www.saysisaysshe.com/estella-los-arcos-21-kms/